Friday, February 20, 2015

The Fruit Explorer Encounters a Mandarin Sumo Tangerine

To All,

While poking around at Whole Foods, a new fruit hove into view that was labeled as a Mandarin Sumo Tangerine (PLU # 3632). It really caught the eye since it has a quince-like topknot. The generic name for this fruit is Shiranuhi, which refers to the region in Japan where it was developed. In Japan its trademarked name is Dekopon. When the fruit was brought to the U.S., the marketeers thought that "Dekopon" would not appeal, so it was given a variety of names such as Mandarin Sumo Tangerine and Sumo Citrus.. The name has not yet stabilized, but "Sumo" is the key word. The marketeers picked this name since this is a large, round fruit and since its topknot is reminiscent of the hair style worn by sumo wrestlers. Is this the only fruit named for a hair style? Whole Foods was charging $2.99/pound; since mine weighed 0.93 pounds, it cost $2.32. (In comparison, a cara cara of the same weight costs $1.25.) This is bigger than all of the citrus fruits I have reported on except for the pomelo (19 Oct 2104), the uniq (17 Jan 2014 and 27 Jan 2015), and some of the cara caras (8 Feb 2015). (To my astonishment, Whole Foods does not have the highest price. The New York Times reported on 21 Feb 2012 ,"Sumo Citrus are sold at Whole Foods for $2.99 a pound; Gourmet Garage, $3.99 a pound; Eataly, $5 a pound.")

         
      

This fruit is not a natural product. It has been developed in Japan over the last 30 years by crossing a satsuma mandarin (25 Jan 2015) and a navel orange. The design goal of this effort was to develop a fruit that was as easy to peel as a tangerine but as big and juicy as a navel orange. The topknot is considered unsightly, but breeders have not yet managed to get rid of it. I like it since it gives this fruit a distinctive look; I beseech the breeders to let it alone. This is the rare fruit that is not best when fresh; to make it more palatable it needs to age for about 30 days after being picked to let the citric acid level decrease and the sugar level increase. Because this fruit is low in citric acid, it is the citrus fruit of choice for those with sensitive stomachs. It is now grown in California and has been available nationwide only since 2012.

"Tangerine" appears in the name of this fruit. Initially this seems like a misnomer because it does not display the tininess usually thought to be a characteristic of tangerines. What makes this name plausible, however, is its loose skin, which one usually associates with tangerines and elephants. Also, it seemed even more tangerine-like when my bare hands peeled it with great ease. The white layer that is so annoying in a pomelo and that sometimes gets in the way when you peel an orange is almost completely absent in the sumo tangerine. Here are pictures of my sumo tangerine.

      

The wedges looked orange-like, and I popped several into my mouth in quick succession. They were plump, extremely juicy, and of an appealing sweetness; when I bit down I got a burst of refreshment. I did not detect any tangerine flavor; in fact, I could detect little flavor at all. Even so, it was very pleasing to eat them. We have here a paradox in that this fruit tastes really good even though it has little or no flavor. Mine had no seeds. 

The verdict: This fruit is fun both to look at and to eat, and it is very easy to prepare. At $2.99/pound, however, it is quite expensive, and regular oranges and tangerines are good substitutes (unless you have a sensitive stomach) that cost far less. If you are painting a still life, buy this fruit. If you are feeding a gang, go with oranges. In short, the original design goals of ease of peeling, large size, and juiciness have been met; now they need to work on getting the price down.

The tree is a hybrid designed by man rather than nature, so the details of the tree are of only minor interest, but here are a few pictures.


      

Because this is a relatively new fruit, it has not yet spawned much in the way of either commercial or home-made products. You might try a recipe for sumo tangerine cheesecake or sumo citrus fudge.

   

Without much time for this fruit to penetrate the world of art, very little artwork has made use of it.


   

Here's your party tip. This fruit was clearly named by someone from Japan, where they worship sumo wrestlers. In this country, in contrast, sumo wrestlers are thought of as gross and uncouth, so the current name discourages consumption by the refined. Therefore, for this fruit to take off in the U.S., it needs a new name.  Ask your guests to walk a mile in their enemy's shoes and imagine that they are marketeers who are charged with coming up with an appealing name for this fruit. The following facts should be kept in mind.
  • This fruit can be called an orange or a tangerine. Since the tangerine is so closely related to mandarins and clementines, these two names could also be used, but keep in mind that these would cause a clash since they imply smallness.
  • Its most striking characteristic is its topknot, so a winning name should make good use of this visual high point.
  • Gustatorily, its most appealing point is its extreme juiciness.
  • It is a large orange. Don't fall into triteness and call it a Texas orange.
  • It is not perfectly round, even aside from the topknot, and its coloring is not uniform, so a good name would turn these imperfections into a strong point.
  • You can exploit the fact that this fruit originated in exotic Japan. (This foreign origin can be ignored or even twisted if good marketeering requires.)
Allow your guests to brainstorm. If the creative faculties come up dry, provide them with more alcohol. A better name is desperately needed for this first-class fruit, and you do not want to miss out on the opportunity to be the one to supply it. Send the best name to the proper authorities. Use the royalties to pay for monthly parties.

Sunday, February 15, 2015

The Fruit Explorer Encounters Bon Bons

To All,

To me chocolates are one of the great luxuries of life, so for Valentines Day I got myself a box of Russell Stover Assorted Creams. After having a few, I took off my gourmet hat, put on my Fruit Explorer hat, and noticed the importance of fruit to this food product. A box of 22 chocolates contained a strawberry cream, lemon cream, orange cream, apricot cream, two raspberry creams, and three coconuts. If one broadens to include maple products, there were four maple nut butters and two maple nut creams. That accounts for 15 of the 22 chocolates. (Of the remaining seven, two were vanilla creams and five were pure chocolate.) The last two pictures below are close-ups of the apricot cream, which served as my introduction to apricot (see the e-mail of 1 Feb 2015).

















If some dictator were to decree that fruits were to be banned from boxes of bon bons, our choices would be sadly impoverished.  If this ban were interpreted to exclude chocolate, which is another plant product, we would be devastated, and life would lose its luster.

This might provide the best argument yet against dictatorship. Certainly no popular legislature would outlaw chocolate since, if it did, the electorate would doubtless throw out the villains in the next election, which later historians would dub The Great Chocolate Revolt. This, however, assumes that there would be a next election. More likely, passage of a chocolate ban would immediately lead to chocolate riots that toppled the government.

Sunday, February 8, 2015

The Fruit Explorer Encounters Three Red Fruits, Part 1 of 2

Red Oranges

Over the course of a year the fruit that I eat the most of is either the banana (PLU #4011), which is remarkable in that it is in season throughout the year, or the large navel orange (PLU #4012), which is in season for about four months a year (roughly January-April). Traditionally I stay away from other oranges both because the navel oranges are so good and also because of the natural apprehension of the unknown. (Even sharks are not experimental gourmets; they only eat familiar food. When a shark attacks a human, it is usually because the shark mistakes a swimming human for a seal.) As the Fruit Explorer, however, I have been trying everything, and today I report on two oranges, the blood orange (PLU #4381) and the cara cara (PLU #3110). Both oranges are red on the inside but orange on the outside, though some blood oranges do have spIotches of red on the outside. I got both oranges on sale at Whole Foods; each blood orange cost seventy-five cents and each cara cara cost a dollar. Here are pictures of the displays at Whole Foods (taken later when the blood oranges were no longer on sale).

   

Here are pictures of blood oranges from the Internet, starting with a blood orange Valentine.


   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
         
   
   
   


Here are pictures of cara cara oranges from the Internet.

         
      


I will admit to a flash of disgust when I cut into one of these and see the unnatural red color when I expect to see a soothing orange. The cara cara is somewhat larger than the blood orange. Below are my pictures. (The blood orange is on the left.)
  • The unpeeled oranges.
  • The peeled oranges.
  • The segments from each orange.
  • Close-up of a segment from each.
         

Now for the taste test. For the blood orange, the first step is to get past the gruesome name. Having managed this, I popped a segment into my mouth. You are perhaps expecting my usual statement that this fruit has little or no taste, but in this case the taste is strong and distinct. The problem is that I don't like it. Since the taste does not remind me of any other taste, I have no way to describe it. As a counterpoint, Mei-Mei, who is renowned for the exquisite sensitivity of her taste buds, finds blood oranges delectable. (I appear to be in the minority in not liking the taste of blood orange.) I next tried a wedge of cara cara. When I bit down, my mouth filled with an pleasing explosion of juice, which is the same sensation I get with a standard navel orange. Since the blood orange segments are smaller, you do not experience the same deluge of juicy delight.  Visually, the blood orange is a rather unsettling shade of dark red, while the red of the cara cara is more muted. Both oranges are seedless and easy to peel.

The "Did You Know?" feature in the Stop&Shop circular for 23-29 January 2015 featured the blood orange. It said that the taste is "...an intense orange flavor with hints of raspberry." Apparently an unemployed wine snob has been reduced to writing for Stop&Shop.


The verdict: I plan to avoid the blood orange, but it might be pursued by someone who develops a taste for it. I consider the cara cara to be the equivalent of the standard large navel orange, so I will buy cara caras freely subject to availability and cost of other available oranges.

Since the cara cara is propagated by grafting, its tree is not of much interest. Here are pictures of the blood orange's tree, fruit, and flowers.

   
   
   
   
   


My search for blood orange products began by chance when I happened across a blood orange soda at Whole Foods. Below are pictures of the display and a close-up of the label. Perhaps this product was created to take advantage of the vampire craze. 

   

The Internet provides quite a few blood orange commercial products. Start with alcoholic beverages. It should be noted that on 16 June 2014,Boston.com declared the blood orange crush to be the drink of the week. Also, blood orange margaritas are said to be chic. Finally, Oprah provides a recipe that tells you how to make your own blood orange vodka; see the last picture. Keep this in mind for your Halloween party.


   
         
   
            


[Continued n Part 2]