Thursday, July 24, 2014

The Fruit Explorer Encounters Kumquats

To All,

Market Basket's latest surprise is kumquats. The kumquat is bright orange, egg-shaped, and about the size of a pecan; see pictures below. The kumquat was in the genus Citrus until a splitter came along in 1915 and moved it into its own genus. (Note: Taxonomists who like to divide closely related organisms into multiple taxonomic categories are called splitters; those who like to combine them together into a single taxonomic category are called lumpers. The divide between splitters and lumpers is almost religious. I am a lumper, and I despise splitters, who in my view are insensitive to the variability in natural populations. For this reason, I consider a kumquat to be a citrus fruit.) I paid $3.50 for a pint, which was about 20 kumquats.

The YouTube video on how to eat a kumquat https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0nK5zXMDDc only lasted 46 seconds. This is the shortest fruit video I have seen, thus indicating that this is the fruit for those who crave simplicity. The technique is to wash, pick off any remaining stem, roll it around to crush it a bit (to release the essential oils, according to the experts), eat it whole, and swallow or spit out the seed(s).

With these instructions fresh in my memory, I washed, picked, rolled, and ate. There was initially an almost shocking burst of tartness, I found that if I chewed through this, then after a couple of seconds the tartness was replaced by a pleasing citrus taste. I ate eight or ten of them. 

My kumquats each had from zero to three seeds. Each seed had the look and size of an orange seed; see picture below.

I also tried a peeled kumquat. If you roll it around and crush it well, you can cut off one end and peel it in about 20 seconds. I found that this dialed down both the burst of tartness and also the flavor. Peeling this fruit, however, destroyed its simplicity, which is its hallmark, so I don't plan to peel my kumquats in the future.

Needless to say, people go ape over the nutritional properties of kumquats, e.g., http://www.nutrition-and-you.com/kumquat-fruit.html.

The verdict: While I am a fan of citrus fruit, and while I like the taste of kumquat, the initial blast of tartness was too much. Kumquats are like cherry bombs--small but strong. Oranges are both better and cheaper. For me, the kumquat will be nothing more than a very occasional change of pace. I can see, however, how this fruit could appeal to those who seek zest.

Seven hours after eating the kumquats, I could still taste them. I gave away the half-pint that remained.

Your party tip is suggested by kumquats looking like little Easter eggs. Before your guests arrive, hide a dozen kumquats around your home. After people have had a few drinks, announce that they are going on a kumquat hunt. As the hunt proceeds, some will exult as they find and eat kumquats. (Your guests will take deep satisfaction in enacting the ancient human rite that you eat what you kill.) Those who are shut out will become increasingly agitated, and when there are only a couple left, their frenzy will build until they are tearing your place apart as they frantically search for a kumquat. After the party, you can use the level of carnage and destruction as a measure of the quality of your party. Perhaps songs will be written celebrating your orchestration of the great kumquat hunt.

Note to gluten avoiders: Kumquats can be used to make a gluten-free flour.

Note to connoisseurs of gracious living: Add class to your drinking by substituting a kumquat for a twist or an olive in your martini.